All about Balsamic Vinegar
by
The Vinegar Man

To say that Balsamic vinegar has grown in popularity in the past few years would be more subtle than the vinegar itself. It has become the standard to which other vinegars are measured.

The unfortunate side effect of this popularity is that the supply can not keep up with the demand. It takes a very long time to make a "Tradizionale", the real thing. And it is very difficult to make. This means that the real thing is very expensive. And since most people have never tasted the real thing, the situation itself creates the perfect environment for imitators. It is one more sad case where the marketers have out maneuvered the makers.

To find out about the real thing, I went to visit Mr. Marco Constanzini, director of the Consortium of Producers of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, in Modena Italy. He was very instructive.

How Traditional Balsamic Vinegar is made.

According to the Consortium, Balsamic vinegar is made from Trebbiano grapes grown around the hills of Modena. This extremely sweet grape forms the foundation of the taste of the "Tradizionale". The grapes, which are harvested as late as possible, are crushed. The resulting must is then filtered immediately into a boiling vat where it is reduced from 30 to 70% in order to increase the sugar level. Then the liquid is cooled, filtered again and poured into casks.

It is poured into casks which are organized in a solera system. As noted in the diagram below, the must is poured in decreasing progression into casks made of various kinds of woods. The most popular are oak, chestnut, cherry, ash and mulberry. This is called "topping". The woods traditionally used are oak, chestnut, cherry wood, ash, and mulberry.

During the other months of the year, the vinegar is left alone except for the occasional inspection of the vinegar maker. The climate of Modena, the fluctuating hot summers and cold winters, is said to be very important to the taste of the final product.

What is a Balsamic?

Officially "The Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena" is made from cooked grape must matured by a long and slow vinegarization process through natural fermentation followed by progressive concentration by aging in a series of casks made from different types of wood and without the addition of any other spices or flavoring.

Color: Dark brown

Density: Fluid and syrup like consistency

Fragrance: Distinct, complex, sharp and unmistakably but pleasantly acid

Flavor: Traditional and inimitable sweet and sour in perfect proportion. To the taste buds it will offer a full and rich flavor with a variety of shadings and evolving bursts of new expressions as the mood or the carrier changes.

I gotta tell you that this description, though fine for attorney's, doesn't even come close to describing a true Balsamic. Words cannot do it justice. The taste is smooth and warm and sweet and sour like they explain. What is hard to explain is the pleasant after tastes which are derived from the various woods. The most interesting thing and the thing that really sets the "Tradizionale" apart from the imitators, are the sensations in the mouth which you notice minutes after the Balsamic vinegar is swallowed.

To appreciate this fine condiment, you have to taste it for yourself. And you have got to taste it slow. Unlike other vinegars which are tasted off a sugar cube, this one is taken straight. Just a drop or two on the tongue will do the trick. And at $100 to $200 and more for a 100 ml bottle, a couple of drops is plenty.

There are two grades of Balsamic "Tradizionale vecchio" , which is at least 12 years old and "Tradizionale extra vecchio" (extra old) at least 25 years old. Both are great but the extra vecchio is thicker and more packed with flavor. The vinegar may be older than the minimum years but the consortium only recognizes these two categories because that is all they feel they can guarantee.

How to tell a real Balsamic from the wanna bes.

First of all take a look at the bottle of Malpighi Balsamic Vinegar in the photo. All "Tradizionale" balsamics from Modena come in this same shape of bottle. The shape of this bottle is registered and patented and can only be used by members of the consortium. The makers label may be different, but you should be able to tell it is the real thing from across the room by the shape of the bottle.

Real balsamics have a legal definition which we covered earlier. To make sure everything which comes in one of their bottles is "Tradizionale" they register every bottle and give it a number. (Note the number on the side of Malpighi bottle.) But before it gets into the bottle it is tested thoroughly.

The test begins when a consortium member brings in a batch of vinegar to be tested. A team of experts is assembled and given samples of the vinegar. They do not know who the maker is . They then perform a series of about 90 tests and make independent ratings. If the batch gets enough points it gets the right to be called Tradizionale. If it does not get enough points, it is returned to the owner.

To be sure that what is approved is what is bottled, the approved lot never leaves the consortium. It is bottled and labeled by the consortium and given a seal and number. Each bottle along with it's number is then registered in a set of very large books. Each bottle has it's own written history there.

The consortium has a record of the capacity of each of it's members and keeps track of how much each member produces. It knows that it takes 12 years to make a Tradizionale and 25 to make an Tradizionale extra vecchio. A member is not allowed to sell more than his registered production capacity.

How do you use Balsamic vinegar?

Balsamic vinegar is quite touchy. It is hard to say how much to use because it has so many subtleties that the taste can change a lot depending on what it is used with. Each batch of Balsamic has a unique personality of it's own.

It's price and concentration suggests if not dictate using it sparingly. I think an eye dropper should come with every bottle sold. I suggested that to the consortium when I was there.

When you make a salad you use a fraction of the amount you would use if it were another vinegar. Typically it is used at the end or near the end of the cooking process so as not to cause the subtle flavors to literally evaporate. On deserts or fruits, add a couple of drops or spray it on with an atomizer or small spray bottle.

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